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Punk fashion has been extremely commercialized at various times, and many well-established fashion designers — such as Vivienne Westwood and Jean Paul Gaultier — have used punk elements in their production. Punk clothing, which was initially handmade, became mass produced and sold in record stores and some smaller specialty clothing stores by the 1980s. By the late 1990s, the American chain store Hot Topic established a niche in selling what they advertised as "punk style clothing" at shopping malls. Many fashion magazines and other glamor-oriented media have featured classic punk hairstyles and punk-influenced clothing. These have caused controversy, as many punks view it as having sold out; those wearing such clothes are often not considered real punks, although they are commonly accepted in pop punk and skatepunk circles